The Road to Plagusus

I made up a new word here. It is the word "Plegusus." I will tell you a little of the back ground before I describe to you what it means. Around the beginning of December the airfield that the military planes fly in and out of, here at McMurdo Station in Antarctica, had to be moved from the temporary ice to the permanent ice. This move is a big deal here and a whole ordeal to do. Why move the runway, you ask? Well, simply put, the planes would eventually crash through the ice if they left it on the temporary ice. Why not always have the runway on the permanent ice, you ask? Well, it is a whole heck of a lot farther to drive and transport to and from the permanent ice runway. So, they use the temporary one for as long as they can till it is no longer going to be safe and then move it. It saves a pile of money in time and resources to have it closer for a time. The new airfield is named "Pegasus" and it is about 16 miles from McMurdo town over snow and ice roads. The old airfield was called the "Ice Runway" and it was about 3 miles from town.

How does this moving of the airfield affect me? Well, my main job is to transport people to and from the airfields so, I know first hand the time and resources the move requires. But also, it is probably the reason I even got to come here. When the move happens, our department needs more people. So that is why I got shipped in right before this time. The first week of the new runway opening was CRAZY! Our department was scrambling to staff the transport needs. We have to be on a time schedule and get the air crews and passengers to their planes for their scheduled departures. We offer a shuttle service that leaves every half hour from town and figuring out how to coordinate all of the drivers and schedules is a BIG job while also trying to continue with our in-town taxi service.

The road out to Pegasus is made only of packed snow and flags marking a few lanes. During the first week, especially, the roads were getting TORN UP with all the traffic moving on them. Fleet ops is the department that maintains that road, basically 24-7, and they were having a heck of a time keeping it groomed and packed after we all tore though in our vans and deltas. This is where my new word, "Plegusus" comes in. I renamed the airfield, "Plegusus" during that first week. It was seriously like going through a plague getting out there! I was not enjoying it. We were all getting stuck in the snow right and left. Fleet ops would have to come pull us out all the time and were not having much time to actually work on the roads. Fourteen miles of road built on sloppy, soft snow, means that sometimes when you got stuck (as I did on 3 different occasions) you would have to wait quite a long time while a challenger (a big tracked machine) would come to your rescue. Being that we were "trying" to be on a schedule with getting air crews and passengers out to their planes, it felt like a LOT of pressure NOT to get stuck. The advice we gave each other was DO NOT SLOW DOWN- just keep the gas pedal compressed or you wouldn't make it. So here we are barreling as fast as allowed though the snow, bumping around, probably catching air on some occasions. I swear we should have issued helmets to people as they got in to ride. Passengers and drivers alike were having anxiety, even bad dreams about the drive (I know I was). I would find my self so tensed up after a run out there that I would be exhausted with a tension headache. Not only were the roads bad but often the visibility would be so bad that it was like driving blind, only seeing the red flags marking the way out with the rest being a white out (white sky meeting white snow). I would strain my eyes to see the holes and bumps in the road but really couldn't most of the time so it was hard avoiding the REALLY bad holes often resulting in getting stuck (that probably contributed to the headaches). I had my whole van sliding sideways numerous times. Three to 4 hrs of this on one run out and back was a lot. I like to describe it like a rodeo, like trying to stay on that bull or bucking bronco, yes, slightly stressful. So, I started spreading the word "Plegusus" and people around town were picking up on it and using it too!

Things have gotten much better since that beginning week. I actually enjoy the drive out to the airfield most of the time. The sunny days are the best when the sky is so blue against the snow, the mountains around are brilliantly spectacular, and the snow is sparkling like diamonds.



The hole I got stuck in was marked with
a sign to help others avoid it (or maybe
to mark "Elisha got stuck here,
everyone!")



The second time I got stuck in the same
hole just hrs after the first time. 
This Kress monstrosity pulled me out:)



Happy Camper



My Antarctic home for a night.

Frigidly cozy:)

Snow camping in Antarctica? Heck yeah! I was extended the opportunity, recently, to take part in an extreme weather survival training course and excitedly accepted. The program is called Happy Camper and it is an overnight camping trip/training where professional mountaineers train a group of people in survival techniques. The course is mainly to train the scientists and support staff going out to the field camps where they are conducting their various research projects. I was able to join in with them for the training. The first day we spent some lecture time in a classroom and then headed out to the ice. The instructors led us through things like how to set up a field camp, building wind walls with snow blocks, cutting the snow blocks out of a query, making a snow kitchen, how to set up and secure tent in wind, how to dig a snow trench to sleep in, how to use the backpacking stoves, how to avoid and treat frost bite and hypothermia, and how to keep yourself and your gear warm while sleeping. It was all really quite interesting. After the whole day of instruction and training, the leaders left the 18 of us to finish building our camp. And, for those of us who chose to sleep in trenches, were able to finish digging those. I was named camp manager after raising my hand to volunteer NOT to be manager, ha ha. So my job was to make sure everyone was accounted for and OK. I also was given the emergency radio in case we had to call our leaders who where staying in another location (in a hut) not too far away.

Getting ready to build camp! Saws and shovels!

We were given the choice of sleeping in a trench or a tent so, of course, I HAD to sleep in a trench! Who gets to say they slept in a "snow cave" in Antarctica??? The basics of snow trenching is that you dig a long and narrow trench 4-5 ft deep, carving out a wider space deeper down to be able to lay and move around a bit. You want the top to be narrow in order to put a roof on more easily. I cut some snow blocks with a saw and made a pitched roof over me leaving only a small opening to crawl down into. The hard part for me was getting in and out with out snow getting all over me and my sleeping bag. Getting to bed and out again in the morning was the worst part. I stayed relatively warm all night long. I took a hot water bottle to bed with me which was awesome. I didn't choose to seal off the opening to my trench, so that also would have helped insulate a bit more. But I was cramped and semi claustrophobic already. I was glad that it was daylight all night cause I think I would have been a bit more freaked out if it was dark out. Getting out of bed and into cold gear in the morning was not the most fun thing I have done, ha ha! My coveralls and gloves froze solid. I tried to lay on them for awhile, like we were told to, but couldn't defrost them so I had to put on some other things I brought instead. It was cold getting out, for sure. I can't imagine what it would have been like in REALLY cold weather. We had sun and mellow wind the whole time (temps prob in the teens or twenties). It is pretty amazing the extreme conditions that people can survive in if properly trained and equipped.

Come, sit, and hang out in the dining room/kitchen. Hot water is on!

Happy Camper Camp!  Every flag is the entrance to a trench.

The second day we had to wake up and break down the whole elaborate camp we had just built, knocking in our trenches and all, which was a little sad. Then we spent the rest of the day learning more skills like how to use a long-range -VHF -military radio to set up emergency communications, practiced deploying and securing a survival camp more quickly, how to think through risk assessment and develop rescue plans, and how to navigate in condition 1 (very poor, low visibility) weather. We were given scenarios and then had to act out what we would do. They the end of the day, we were all beat and gladly loaded up ourselves and gear to head back to the station. It was fun but also a lot of work which I remedied with a nice little nap when we got home:) It was a cool experience and I am lucky to have been given the opportunity!

The lovely wind-wall

Hi!!!

　

The JOB



Driving a Delta



Life, here, in Antarctica is in full swing. It has been about three weeks since I arrived and I already feel, in many ways, like I have been here a long time. I am through my job training time and am now fully functioning as a Vehicle Operator. So far, I am really grateful for the job I have. I think it is a pretty great department to be in (the Shuttles Department). My basic job duties are to transport people around "town" and surrounding area, take scientist to their research sites, transport flight crews, passengers, and workers to the airfields, and at times act as the dispatcher to assign and task the other shuttlers. As drivers we get to meet a lot of people who use our service and also get to see around the area far more than most because of the nature of the job driving around everywhere. There are 26 of us in our department and we run a 24 hr service (I am currently a day-shifter). We are a mix of all kinds of people, the oldest being 72 years old and youngest probably mid twenties. It is a good group of people many of whom are the people I hang out with outside of work.

The vehicles I have to drive here are vans, airporters, and deltas. The vans we mainly use as taxis around town or for smaller groups of people going to the airfield or job sites. They are a ford vans, very jacked up for extra clearance, with huge snow tires. They are very big and tough looking. The airporters, like a van-bus combo, are to transport more people, mainly to the airfield for a flight or from a flight. I think they hold about 20 passengers. The deltas are old navy vehicles with a front cab for the driver, articulating middle, with a box on back for passengers. They have huge tires (about 5 feet high) and provide for a pretty rough ride for the people in the back. I kinda feel like I am operating a big old-school semi driving those. They can hold about 18 passengers in the back (3 in front). We will start to use these more in the coming weeks because the roads here get pretty rough and rutty with the break-up of the snow and ice as the temps get warmer (not so much the popular mode of transportation).

As a shuttle driver, I am given a variety of tasks everyday.  Our supervisor breaks up each of our day's with a range of tasks.  For example in the morning I might spend a couple of hours as a shuttle to and from the airfield and then come back to the office to be on-call for around town taxi duties.  After lunch I might be scheduled for a few hours of dispatch and then end with being the transport person for the air crews flying out from the airfield. This way each driver isn't stuck doing one task all day long.  There are times of waiting around between tasks and we are able to read or crochet or the like.  We also have to frequently use hand held radios to communicate with our dispatcher and each other.  My call name is "Shuttle-Elisha" (or "Shuttle-Leesh" for short).  It took some getting used to talking on the radio and learning all the lingo that goes along with that, but I think I've sort of got a handle on it now.  The key is to think before you speak, ha ha, cause a lot of people get to hear you if you fumble-mumble around on the radio.

 

Watch out everyone!!!



 



It is a pretty muddy mess around here right now, I guess the equivalent of spring break up. After the initial sunny days when I first arrived we had some stormy weather move in and had a good dump of snow for some days but it is now sunny again and melting all that snow. Rivers of water are flowing down the roads and creating some pretty good ruts making for bumpier rides and very dirty vehicles (which we occasionally give squeegie baths). Part of my job is helping maintain the vehicles: cleaning them, checking fluids, lights, leaks, tires, etc.  Vehicle checks are done twice a day and recorded.

This is basically what fills my time most days.  Stay tuned.....

Ice, Ice, Baby!

A view of Antarctica from the air

I made it to Antarctica! I arrived here at McMurdo Station Monday the 14th of November.  It almost doesn't seem real that I am here! This a crazy and interesting place down here, for sure.  And just to ease minds, no, I am not freezing to death (not yet anyway, ha ha).

 

It was a such process getting down here to Antarctica. I left home November 8th and flew to Denver to orientation where I met 20+ others also heading to Antarctica.  We all stayed a couple of days in Denver attending various briefings to prepare us for "the ice" (as it is well known as).  On the 10th we all boarded a plane and had a loooong trip to Christchurch, New Zealand (13hrs on the longer of the two flights).  Once in NZ we were all issued our Extreme Cold Weather (ECW) gear; basically everything we need to keep warm in Antarctica (outside, that is). Besides the gear issuing, we were free to explore around Christchurch if we wanted (which I did).

Getting off the C-17 on the ice runway

On the morning of the 14th, we all boarded a C-17, a military cargo jet, and flew the rest of the 5 hrs from Christchurch to McMurdo Station, Antarctica.  That was quite the cool experience being in a military plane like that with tons of cargo in the back, passenger seats along the edges and in the front, and with the fuselage totally exposed around us.  There were about 4 tiny windows in the whole plane and we were all taking turns trying to catch a glimpse of the continent as we arrived. The US air force attended to our flight and flew us down.  Whoever wanted to was able to take turns going up into the cock pit during the flight to have a look around (and ask the air force pilots dumb questions like I did).  As we approached the runway, we bundled up in our ECW gear and landed on the ice runway (which was created on seasonal sea ice under which the Antarctic ocean water flows).  It was awesome stepping out of the plane to see the vast white ice shelf stretching out for miles with rugged white mountains rimming the edges of the horizon.  I think everyone felt a bit giddy in excitement to arrive trying to comprehend that we were actually in ANTARCTICA!

After landing we were then herded onto buses waiting to drive us the few miles across the ice to McMurdo Station (located on actual land, not ice).  Of course, more briefings awaited us that day as we all arrived.  When those were finally done, we dragged our bags to our assigned dorms.  I was put in dorm 155 which is where all (well, most) of the first year people are put.  It can pretty much be related to being put in the freshman dorm in college: lots of people to a room (4-6), not much space or privacy, located in the main building where all the activity is centered, and lots of energy focused on partying!  I was apprehensive about my roommate situation going into it but I think I am happy with what it is.  Right now, there are 4 of us in the room (with room for one more if needed). There is no windows in the room which has actually turned out to be quite a blessing due to the 24 hr. sunlight, so we are able to have complete darkness while we sleep for the most part.  And, my roommates are the quieter type who are rarely in the room and do not snore.  What more could I ask for?? I have my little bunk bed-nest and I am able to sleep quite nicely in it so far.  Thank God.

My little area in my room (top bunk free right now)

My dorm building is also the home of the cafeteria (ie.the galley), the computer kiosk station, the store, the laundry facility, some lounges, the radio station, the craft room, the barber shop, some ATMs, the library, the weight room, a bar, and the activities center, oh and I think there is a sauna upstairs.  So, a good chunk of all the action takes place here.  It is nice to be able to access all those thing without really having to bundle up and go outside.  The food in the galley has been pretty decent too.  There is always something tasty to eat and so far there are semi-fresh veggies and greens (known as "freshies") to eat twice a day.  Hot drinks, PB&J, cereal, juice, and toast is available 24/7.  Daily there are fresh baked desserts and pastries put out too not to mention the ice cream machine (which I think is 24/7 as well).  Ahh! I gotta watch myself!

Can you spot the sea lion?

The 24 hr sunlight is a trip!  I feel surprised by it every "night" pretty much.  For example, I will be sitting in the coffee house/wine bar typing on the computer and it will be getting to be 10 or 11pm.....I will start to feel tired like it is about time to go to bed.  From inside, it "feels" like it is dark outside because the coffee bar is dimly lit without windows to simulate evening/nighttime but when I open the door to step outside ....BAM!!... the sunlight, in all of its midday splendor, is there to meet me.  I hurry to my dorm before I feel "woken up" again by the light.  It is trippy but cool, for sure.  I can go for a hike or cross country skiing outside at anytime of the day if I want (of course, weather and work permitting) without concern for loss of light at

anytime.  How crazy!

Scott's point with McMurdo in the backgroud (11pm)

As far as weather goes, it has been amazing!  I'm not sure if this is normal or not but it has been clear and sunny almost every day since I arrived and the temperatures have been from 15-28 degrees above zero (colder when there is a wind chill).  But, if you are in the sunlight, you could potentially be without a coat just fine for awhile on the non-windy days.  Being in the shade feels much cooler for sure.  The wind is what really determines if you are cold or not. I can honestly say I have been hot far more often than I have been cold.  All the buildings are warm, almost too hot in my opinion.  People are out and about outside all the time jogging, walking, hiking, skiing, standing and talking.  Actually, the station is slowly turning into a mud bog as the intense sunlight melts the snow which runs down the roads and makes a muddy, slushy mess (which makes my driving job rougher).  I almost wish the temps were a little more extreme just so I could brag about being in extremer weather:)  But, I haven't seen a storm yet and apparently the weather can turn on a dime here.  But, for now, I will enjoy the milder temps.

There is much more to write about but I will save that for another post and time....stay tuned! Take a look at the webcam link and try to spot me driving around in a red van!

Making my way to the ICE!!

This must be what it sort of feels like to be a "up-there," business person or maybe someone who works for the CIA or FBI: You get flown to a city, all travel expenses paid (even your overweight baggage). You are put up in a fancy hotel with a room with two double beds all for yourself.  You are shuttled around to your various meetings and "briefings."  You are given special clearance badges to enter these important buildings' premises. You have a whole staff at the headquarters to make your processes go ever so smoothly.You are given a wad of cash to cover whatever it is your palate tempts you to. You do your special computer training courses.  Then you wait to be sent on your government mandated mission which will be awarded with a recognition medal at the end of your service.  Soon after you will be wisked away to another country where you will again recieve all you need in accomodations before embarking on your special mission.  Where am I right now??  I feel like some important secret service agent or something:)

Orientation here in Denver is going well.  I've met some other people also heading down to work in Antarctica, a few of which are in my same department, Shuttles.  Two of the guys, here, on my crew, have been down there one season already.  I have been asking them loads of questions about it all and keep getting more excited about what I hear (mostly). It sounds so interesting! I'm so curious to see what this is going to be like!

What?!? Antarctica?!?

Yes, it is true! I am soon off to Antarctica.  "What?!? Why?!?" you ask....ahh yes....let me tell you. I am, actually, heading down there to work.  No, I won't be doing the scientific research that goes on down there (I wish I was that cool), but I will be doing a support job to help the whole McMurdo Station community/facility of the National Science Foundation function smoothly. 

I first found out about this whole Antarctica thing last winter while working up at Schweitzer Resort.  I had never  considered or even heard of working in Antarctica before.  Not in my wildest dreams (or nightmares) did I EVER think I would be going there!  One of the resort shuttle bus drivers, that I rode up and down the mountain with every day for work, flippantly mentioned once, in one of our chats, that he had travelled to Hawaii after working in Antarctica.  As he went on to talk about Hawaii, I was like, "Hold on...wait...what? You worked in Antarctica???" The rest of the ride up the mountain he filled me in on what goes on down there and at the end of the bus ride, he said, "You should definately apply to work down there. You totally seem like the type to go." I got off the bus saying, "Yeah, um... maybe I'll look into it," not really thinking that I actually would. 

The rest of that day, week and on, I really couldn't get the whole idea out of my head; this adventurous opportunity to go do this thing that so few people do.  Over the following few weeks, I met 2 other people up on the mountain that had worked there (how weird)! It seemed like the subject of Antarctica was now coming up everywhere.  So then I kinda started to get excited and thought I would at least try to apply and see what might happen. I also tried to recruit any and everyone to come too!  How fun would that be? Go to Antarctica with a group of friends? People seemed interested, or at least pretended to be. My good friend, Stephanie, at least, went to the point of applying with me, (thanks Steph) but realized as interviews were coming up that winter weather really wasn't her thing (she's actually in Australia right now, enjoying the more tropical summer weather:)

I had applied for number of random positions, a few I felt qualified for and a few I wasn't qualified for.  I was able to land 3 interviews.  They were all phone interviews, the first of which I had while I was travelling in Israel last spring (skype is so amazing). After the first 2 interviews, I was called back for both and offered "alternate positions."  This means that if the primary person hired over me for the position drops out along the way or fails to pass some of the medical/dental/drug screenings, then the alternate (I) would be called upon to go. Both of these jobs I was offered were lower on the totem pole type jobs (not so appealing) and I really wasn't wanting to be an alternate not knowing if I would be going or not and still have to jump through all the million hoops as if you were going. So, my 3rd interview was for a Vehicle Operator position (basically a shuttle service to get people and cargo around the science station village and to the airfields).  Judging from the interview, this definitely seemed like a better job than the other two and was higher paying as well.  I didn't really feel super confident after the 1 1/2 hr. long interview. I don't have any experience driving passenger vehicles and I felt like the odds were definitely not in my favor to get this job. At this point in the process I was like, "Ok, God. I need some direction from you here.  First off, I don't know if you even WANT me to go to Antarctica.  Second, I don't know IF I even want to go. Third, I'm not even sure I CAN go. So, as a confirmation for me, if I am supposed to even pursue this anymore, could these be the signs...." 1) get a primary position 2) at McMurdo Station 3) get the Vehicle Operator position.  A week later I received a call and was offered all three of those things! I was totally shocked, not expecting to he hired while also feeling a bit like, "Oh, crap, what the heck did I just get myself into?"

So here I am just days away from flying out to work for Raytheon Polar Services, down in Antarctica, at McMurdo Station, as a Vehicle Operator for about 4 months.  I am curiously excited to see what this whole Antarctica thing is all about, what goes on down there, and what kind of people actually do this.  I am having my moments of nervousness as the departure day gets closer.  This will be my first real solo adventure, after all, but I also feel very optimistic and peaceful overall.  Oh, and I forgot to mention the cherry on top of this whole cake...I will have the opportunity to extend my ticket and stay some time in New Zealand on the way home in the spring!! I am also planning to add on a few weeks up to Australia as well.  Yes, this definitely helped to tip the scales in my deciding to do this whole adventure:)

I would very much appreciate your prayers for me as I head down under the land down under.  I need some extra warmth, quick job learning skills, continued peace, good friends and roommate(s), health and safety, and lots of mail from home (note the address on the sidebar)!!! Thanks for taking the time to read this.  I hope I can keep you somewhat entertained in the coming months with my posts as I try to communicate what it is like in the Antarctic! Life is really taking me to the ends of the earth!